Tom and Laure in Asia

Chasing the Dodo

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Chapter  27 is all about a great place to go for your (potential) honeymoon: Mauritius! Paradise in the middle of the Indian ocean and close to its (French) twin island Reunion where my family lives and that we already had the chance to explore... back in the days when Europe was our base. It was thus the logical choice for a family holiday (poor us really!): sea, sun and swimming pool! We made the most of it...

 
 
When one thinks of Mauritius, images of a tropical paradise spring to mind: white sandy beaches, coral reefs and lush green vegetation. All of these things can be found and much more too.
 
There are just over one million inhabitants of Mauritius . Over half are Hindu and the rest are Christian and Muslim. English is the official language but infact French and Creole are the most widely spoken. Many people are descendants of Indian indentured labourers (mostly from Tamil Nadu) and Chinese.
 
Most major European maritime powers used Mauritius at some point or another. Arab traders knew of the island (and called it Dinarabin) from the 10th century onwards. In 1511 the Portuguese who passed the island on the way to India called it: Ilha do Cerne ( Swan Island , maybe after mistaking the dodos for swans!). The island wasn’t settled or claimed until 1598 when the Dutch planted their flag and called the island Mauritius after the Dutch ruler Maurice, Prince of Orange and Count of Nassau. The Dutch used Mauritius as a supply base for Batavia (Java in modern day Indonesia ) until 1638 when a serious attempt to settle it began. They introduced slaves from Africa , wild boar, deer, tobacco and sugar cane; as well as dogs, cats and rats. The introduced pests and the Dutch themselves are held responsible for the extinction of the incredibly tame and unafraid dodos. These football sized birds were definitely rich pickings and fortunately for the Dutch, the world didn’t give a toss about endangered species back then!
 
The Dutch failed to make an economically viable colony on Mauritius and in 1710 left the island with their tails between their legs, marooning African slaves in the process. Not to worry, the French replaced them in 1715. In 1735 Betrand Francois Mahe de la Bourdonnais, a real man with a plan, helped design and build Port Louis , built the island’s first roads, expanded defences and raised a local navy to harass les Rosbifs – the Brits. The first sugar mill and hospital were also built during his governorship (this guy must have been a true workaholic, no 35 hour working week back in those days!).
 
Sugar production was to grow into and still is a pillar of the Mauritian economy. Ile de France became Ile Bonaparte, during Napoleonic times (strangely enough) and finally, seeing the island as a threat to India ; the yorkshire pudding eating, beer swilling Brits took control in 1810. Not before we had our royal bottoms kicked in Napoleon’s only naval victory: the Battle of Vieux Grand Port. Renamed Mauritius (again) the island had a peaceful transition to independence in 1968. Now tourism is the biggest pillar of the economy but also poses some of the biggest environmental challenges…

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In the pool!

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Pamplemousse - Botanical garden (the famous Giant Nenuphars!)

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Pamplemousse - Nemo kindly posing in front of the lotus flowers

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Blue lagoon, gorgeous beach...

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Family picture with a great background!

The Lisnics flew back to the island of La Reunion on 28th January. We went back to Mahebourg and spent the next five days there. We stayed in a cheap hotel with a nice view from the balcony. In next few days we swam in the sea in Blue Bay , read books on the balcony (with Phoenix beers close by and visited the idyllic island called Ile aux Cerfs (Deer Island). This place has been developed for big spending tourists but if you search for it there's always a cheaper way to experience the same thing! Lagoons, turquoise water, deserted beaches and mangrove wetlands were all to be found on or around the island. Unfortunately we got there in time for the tail end of a tropical storm (but luckily had a hour or so of walking and swimming beforehand) and decided tyo head for home in the early afternoon.
 
On 1st February we witnessed the spectacular festival of Cavadee that the island's Hindus celebrate every year in reverance to Lord Muruga. A procession of men carrying various heavy wooden constructions on their heads, pierced literaly from head to foot with hooks and beads with citrus fruit and decorations hanging from them. many other men, women and children took part in the festival too. Almost all were dressed in pink saris or loincloths. One man, in an amazing act of devotion, laid on a bed of nails, which in turn was transported by truck.
 
During our final days in Mauritius we frequented our favourite local restaurant 'La Colombe' and befriended a Parisien engineering lecturer. Our stay on the island and especially the time with Laure's family really refreshed us and drove away the remenents of the travel weariness that had plagued us towards the end of our time in India. Another fantastic island was now waiting to be uncovered....

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Mahebourg - Cavadee festival

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Tempted anyone???

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Riviere Noire - Our home for one week!

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View of Le Morne from the south

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Chamarel - 7 coloured earth

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Port-Louis waterfront

We spent our first two nights in a hotel in Mahebourg with a seafront view. Coral reef protected the bay with its shallow turquoise waters and some hills dominated the landscape to the north. We didn't do much in those 2 days- we were in waiting mode. We did try out Blue Bay with its calm waters - perfect for swimming.
 
Laure's father, stepmother and two young brothers (Tomas, Agnes, Nils and Nemo) arrived on 20th January. They were having a stopover in Mauritius on the way back to La Reunion after spending the winter in France. We met them at the airport and were all driven to Grande Riviere Noire where Tomas and Agnes had rented a house with a swimming pool. The house was clean and spacious; Laure, Nils, Nemo and myselftook straight to the pool for a bit of rough and tumble. Before I knoew it I was a shark chasing to innocent little bathers, next I was a T- Rex chasing to herbivores with names I can't remember then I became the herbivore being attacked by two T - Rex!!!
 
The games continued inbetween meals and visits over the next week. We visited many beaches in the north, the botanical gardens and sugar mill museum (the production of sugar surprised me in its complexity, I would never have believed it!) near Pamplemousses, the capital Port Louis, Trou aux Cerfs (Deer hole)- an extinct volcanic crater that now has various species of flora growing over it.
 
Tamarin and Flic-en-Flac beaches were the closest to us so we caught a couple of cloud fringed sunsets from there. Tomas also drove us along the southwest coast where on different days we visited Chamarel Coloured Earth (a patch of land with soils of seven colours!) and Vanille Crocodile Park with plenty of reptiles, amphibians and insects to engross us all. Here we were lucky enough to see the birth of a baby crocodile from its egg (the cafe had crocodile kebabs and sandwiches so I wonder where this one ended up!). Nils was more than happy in a place like this. At ten years old he has a knowledge of biology that already supercedes mine and Laure's put together!
 
It was great to watch Nemo's swimming confidence grow throughout the week thanks to the pool. He loved the imaginative games Nils came up with and threw himself into them (literally and metaphorically!).
 
We ate lots of seafood throughout our time in Mauritius and with the Lisnics we had tuna, swordfish, octopus amongst other types of fish. A big treat for Laure and I were the various cheeses: cheddar, Roquefort, Camenbert and goat's cheese accompanied by red wines from all over the world (South Africa, Chile, Calafornia and France of course) and we always kept some Phonenix beers on ice. 
 
Grande Riviere Noire was the closest thing we had to home since our week's stay in Kathmandu. After an interesting visit to the casela Bird park on the Lisnics' last day in Mauritius, Laure and I began to turn our minds towards where we'd be staying for our last five days (we were leaving after them).

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Thrilling experience! On inflatable tyres they went and fast with that

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Nils on a giant tortoise!

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We witnessed the birth of a baby crocodile!

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I guess that's what happens if you talk too much!... Girls around the world beware!